How Much Does a Garage Add to Home Value in Tacoma?

Ask an appraiser how much it’s worth, and you’ll likely hear “it depends.” That’s not an attempt to dodge the question. It’s an honest response. I’m a residential appraiser based in Tacoma’s North End, serving Kitsap, Thurston, Pierce, and southern King Counties. Across these sub-markets, I commonly see garage contribution in the $7,000–$17,000 range, with occasional cases above that when utility is enhanced by external factors (for example, Frederickson). 

North End vs. Central Tacoma: Same Homes, Different Land Values

Consider two adjacent Tacoma neighborhoods: the North End and Central Tacoma. On paper, the housing stock is broadly similar in age, size, and condition; they’re separated primarily by Sixth Avenue. Repeated calculations show North End homes selling about 17% higher than otherwise similar homes in Central Tacoma—typically between 16–19%, depending on the type of home. Why is there a price difference? Location. It’s the land. The actual structures do not cost any more to build on either side. And, strangely, in both of these markets, garages are small, in disrepair, and sometimes inadequate to house modern vehicles. In practice, I often reconcile around $9,000 for garage contribution in either of these neighborhoods. That makes sense. They are old, they’ve depreciated, and they may be halfway done with their economic life.

Graham and South Hill: Newer Tracts and Three-Bay Norms

Now, contrast those neighborhoods with Graham and South Hill, where tract housing is abundant and most of the housing stock is newer. Three-bay garages are common in Most Graham developments. Ongoing new construction demonstrates that builders have identified demand and buyers are willing to purchase it. Although the same house would typically be worth less in Graham and South Hill than in Tacoma (the land itself is less valuable), garage contribution is often higher because the garages are newer and demand is stronger. In these neighborhoods, I frequently reconcile a garage contribution of about $12,000 using the cost approach (the cost to build new, depreciated by age). This approach reconciles comparable sales very well.

When Cost and Contribution Diverge (Superadequacy)

In reality, the cost approach isn’t the only way to value a home, and buyers don’t sit down to do depreciated-cost math. Market participants value the first thing more than the second, third, or fourth; the contributory value of the same feature typically diminishes. Think about bathrooms: the first is valued far more than the second. Over time, the cost approach breaks down because cost and contribution diverge. If the home is not typical of the area, the cost approach can be a poor way to establish value, and as an appraiser exercising good judgment, I would consider other methods to identify value.

Take a custom ten-car garage in a suburban Graham neighborhood where three bays are typical. The market will likely value three bays, might recognize a fourth or a fifth, and then stop—additional capacity is no longer priced in. In appraisal terms, this is called a “superadequacy.” Just because you can build it does not mean you’ve created value.

Frederickson Case Study: Industrial Proximity and Oversized Garages

Of course, there are many methods an appraiser can use—paired sales, adjusted paired sales, grouped sales, adjusted grouped sales, sensitivity analysis, and, where the dataset supports it, neighborhood-level modeling. Sometimes the cost approach is not the best. Especially when the subject or market is unique. For example: 

In Frederickson, a large light-industrial district with fulfillment centers and manufacturing anchors the area. Surrounding this district are several tract developments. A distinct submarket has emerged because of proximity to light-industrial work, and it behaves differently from tract homes in Graham, South Hill, and even other tracts within Frederickson. Homes on larger lots—about 0.5–1.0 acre—situated very conveniently, sometimes across the street from these facilities, show higher garage contribution because buyers can run a complementary business from an oversized or multiple-bay garage with machinery. This effect is highly location-specific to Frederickson’s industrial base; in these cases, the contributory value of a garage can be as high as $24,000—roughly twice the indication in nearby tract homes and more than the cost to build new.  And in this submarket, the cutoff for superadequacy is much, much higher.

I haven’t even touched things like, garages with shop space, machinery, extra tall bays, or garages with no doors. So, how much is your garage worth?  It depends.  Maybe you should ask an appraiser?

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🔹 For Sale By Owner (FSBO)
Going solo? Then getting the price right is critical. Sure, you could check Zillow or Redfin... but those estimates can miss the mark—by tens of thousands. A professional appraisal removes the guesswork and gives you the confidence to list competitively from day one.

🔹 Real Estate Agents
Many top-performing agents turn to us when pricing is uncertain or comparable sales are limited. For some, ordering a pre-listing appraisal is part of fulfilling their fiduciary duty—ensuring their pricing strategy is grounded in objective, accurate data.

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Inherited a property and planning to sell? A pre-listing appraisal gives clarity, especially if you’re coordinating with siblings or planning an estate. It’s a smart way to set expectations early.

What’s Included in a Cornerstone Pre-Listing Appraisal?

📈 Market Analysis That Goes Beyond Comps
We don’t just pull a few recent sales and call it a day. We analyze submarkets, neighborhood nuances, and buyer sentiment—because even homes on the same block can move in different directions.  When you know the direction of your market, you can make better decisions.

📏 ANSI-Compliant Square Footage
Square footage mistakes cost sellers money. How often are public records wrong?  A lot. Yes, we’ve seen square footage errors that left over $40,000 on the table for the sellers, because the assessor’s numbers are wrong. Our measurements follow national ANSI standards, ensuring precision and accurate information.

🔧 Property Condition Insights for Financing
Different loan types (Conventional, FHA, VA) come with their own sets of property requirements. During our pre-listing appraisal, we flag common issues that could delay—or even derail—a sale. This is especially valuable if you’re considering offers with FHA or VA financing. Accepting an FHA offer before your home is FHA-ready can lead to costly delays, unexpected repair requests, or even a canceled deal. We help you get ahead of those issues before your home ever hits the market.

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Your appraisal is confidential. You can ask questions, share it (or not), and even bring us into conversations with your listing agent if you’d like. It’s your tool to price smarter, prep better, and close with confidence.

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FHA Inspection Checklist

FHA assignments comprise approximately half of my workload.   I do a lot of these. Hundreds a year.  Several of you have asked me to write down the basics for property standards.  To be clear: No FHA appraiser is a property inspector.  We only deal with apparent (obvious) deficiencies, and ask for inspections when an expert is needed. If you click on this link if you want access to the actual 4000.1 Handbook. This is definitely not a complete list.

Here’s the basics: HUD is primarily interested in whether the property is Safe, Secure, and Sound; so that buyers are not unreasonably burdened with expenses related to their home. “Safe” refers to the property and the likelihood someone may be injured in the typical use of the home and property. “Secure” refers to the ability to secure the property to prevent theft and break in.  “Sound” refers to the physical deterioration of the property, and whether it is suitably protected from aging. It’s important to note also that these standards exist even when the improvement contributes no value to the property.  A dilapidated barn that will collapse within the next 2 years probably does not contribute any value. But it will still injure a person.  Property standards for FHA are not only about collateral (the value of the assets).  I cannot, on an FHA assignment say “I can ignore that because I’m not valuing it.”

The FHA handbook is specific in some things, while it leaves a good amount of discretion and judgment to determine Safety, Security, and Soundness.  So - no appraiser can give you an exhaustive list of what things may get identified for repair. But, in the spirit of being helpful - here’s how I typically walk a property and what I look for:

On the exterior - 1. Roof, 2. Gutters, 3. Siding, 4. Paint, 5. Railing, 6. Exposed electrical.

I walk the property and look for the roof condition (HUD specifies there must be a minimum 2-year remaining economic life).  If the roof looks worn, damaged, or significantly mossy, I will likely call for a roof certification to ensure that the roof is compliant with this standard.  Gutters and Downspouts are not required, but if they are present, they must be in working order - disconnected downspouts and gutters pulling away from the roof are common issues.  This is a “soundness” issue in the Pacific Northwest, as water that is incorrectly directed away from the home can create larger problems for the siding and foundation.  

Exterior siding needs to be installed correctly and completely.  Missing or broken siding must be repaired. Warped, cracked, and chipped vinyl siding must be repaired.  Failing paint on the exterior of the home must be repaired.  Flaking, chipping, spalling, or any type of paint failure is directly called out in the handbook.  Now, some exterior wood does not require paint (some cedar shake, pressure-treated wood, etc.).  However, if a pressure-treated deck was previously painted and is now flaking off, the failing paint must be scraped and it must be repainted. (very common with decks and porches) *If the home was built before 1978, HUD instructs appraisers to treat failing paint on the exterior (and interior) as though it may contain lead. In this case, paint flakes on the ground are a health hazard. and paint removal/repair must not result in paint chips on the ground.

Decks and stairs are not specifically identified in the handbook. However, building codes are largely uniform in what they consider safe and unsafe. Most of the mortgage industry defaults to these standards.  For deck height - it’s 2 ½ feet (30 inches).  Measure the biggest drop from the deck/patio. If the drop exceeds 30 inches, it needs a guardrail to prevent someone from falling.  If a stairwell has 4 or more steps, there must be a handrail.  Please note: there are many lenders and some local codes that require a handrail at 3 steps. A handrail assists someone going up and down the stairs. Only one side is necessary.

Any exterior outlets with bare wires hanging out?  Cap them.

Appraisers are expected to poke their heads into the crawlspace and attic, if accessible. Before the appraiser shows up, please clear out the space to give me access.  If the crawlspace is screwed shut, please unfasten the screws.  

In the attic - 1. Rodents, 2. Insulation, 3. Ventilation, 4. Mold, 5. Active leaks. 

Rodents. If there are rodent droppings, does it smell?  If it does, there’s likely an active infestation that needs to be remediated.  Is there insulation?  Is it sufficient to be accepted by the market?  3. Ventilation. Can I see daylight from the vents?  Is the air excessively moist? (bathroom fans sometimes vent into attics, causing problems) does it smell? 4. Mold.  Is there black staining on the plywood roof decking? 5. Active leak.  Is there any staining or efflorescence associated with water intrusion?  Any of these will likely result in a call for a professional inspection. If the professional finds a problem, remediation.

In the crawlspace - 1. Rodents, 2. Insulation, 3. Standing water/moisture, 4. Debris, 5. Sufficient height.

Rodents. In a crawlspace evidence of infestation involves a combination of droppings, smell, and destroyed insulation.  Rodents use insulation as nesting.  Any combination of these may be an indication of rodent infestation.  Crawlspaces are to be sealed up/secured to prevent infestation. (are crawlspace openings screened off to prevent rodent access?  Does the exterior hatch seal up to prevent rodents?  2. Insulation. Is there sufficient insulation for market expectations?  Has it fallen down and become debris? 3. Standing water/moisture. Standing water in a crawlspace must be corrected regardless of how it entered. Vapor barriers are not necessary, but they may play a role in decreasing crawlspace moisture. 4. Debris. Crawlspaces must be clear of debris.  If insulation is all over the ground, a contractor stashes rubble or construction supplies in the crawlspace, it must get cleared out. 5. HUD used to require 18” minimum clearance in a crawlspace explicitly. This has been modified to say “sufficient height for access.”  The idea here is that future repairs on an inadequate crawlspace would adversely impact homeowners with additional repair costs.   Any deficient crawlspace conditions can result in a professional inspection or a call to repair.

On the Interior - 1. All appliances, 2. Heating/cooling, 3. Lights, 4. Mold, 5. Electrical, 6. Utilities.

When I move to the interior, I am systematic in how I walk through. I operate the garage door opener and measure the garage. Did the garage door opener work? HUD requires that all appliances included in the transaction must function.

I walk into every bedroom.  Turn on the light. Turn on the heater (if it’s an electric wall/baseboard), and look for exposed electrical (outlet and light switch covers).  In each bathroom, I turn on the lights, the exhaust fan, the sink faucets, and the shower, then flush the toilets while every faucet is on. Testing every fixture, and stress testing the water pressure. The lights must work. The fan must work. The sink, shower, and toilet must work. (have at least one functional light bulb in each light, I will be checking)  If an exhaust fan does not work, it must be repaired. (If an exhaust fan does not exist in the bathroom, it is acceptable unless there is evidence that its absence is a health/safety issue). Low or no water pressure must be remedied. HUD requires sufficient water pressure to be accepted by the market. 

In the kitchen, I confirm that all utilities are on and functioning.  If water, electricity, or gas are turned off, it will require a reinspect. I also check every appliance in the kitchen. If appliances do not function, they must be repaired, replaced, or removed.  Refrigerator, dishwasher, microwave, garbage disposal, stove/range, hood vent.  Gas fireplaces, if present.  Hot water, heating, and cooling take time to check - as I let the tap run for a while to determine that the water heater is working. Heating and cooling cycles are confirmed by feeling the air through the vents.

Smoke, CO, Water Heater straps.  These are the bane of my existence.  FHA says nothing about these. In Washington State, they are all required to be present by law.  The legislators have determined that homes without these features are not safe.  Since HUD broadly identifies that homes must be safe, secure, and sound, I have a difficult time defending the absence of these features in the presence of clear legal safety regulations.  For me, these are required for my FHA assignments.

Safety, Security, and Soundness are broad-sweeping ideas that require judgment to a certain degree.  Is there glass and piles of debris all over the property (safety)? Do the doors or windows of the home prevent safely exiting in an emergency (safety/egress)?  Do they have no door locks at all (security)?  Does the fencing or shed look like it could collapse on someone (safety/soundness)?  

Also outbuildings.  Is there a stick-built shed with peeling paint, a weathered door, bare wood, or a leaking roof?  HUD 4000.1 handbook says that minimum property requirements are applied to the primary dwelling and all additional structures.  Sheds, detached shops, garages, and ADUs are all required to meet these standards. 

Agents - best of luck on your deals!  I hope this helps to better navigate listings with your clients.  When you’re better informed, they’re better informed!

Hope to see you on a deal sometime soon!